Showing posts with label climbing. Show all posts
Showing posts with label climbing. Show all posts

Tuesday, October 7, 2008

Indoor Rock Climbing for Fitness: It's Not Extreme Anymore

Once an activity labeled as an "extreme sport", rock climbing has in the last few years become a very popular workout activity as the use of indoor climbing walls in fitness facilities, community centers and health clubs has increased and made the sport much more user friendly. Not only can it be fun and exciting, rock climbing is one of the most effective strength training workouts a person can ever have, providing fitness and strength benefits that are difficult to match with any other single activity. If you want to work out every muscle in your body in the shortest amount of time possible and get quick results in strength, body shape, toning and muscular endurance, there is no better thing to do. It burns a tremendous amount of calories as well, assisting with weight or fat loss. And did I mention that it is fun? Participants sometimes have such a blast that they even forget to feel tired! Around twenty years ago, the very first climbing gyms started appearing around the United States. One of the first was The Vertical Club in Seattle, Washington, and that is where I first took a lesson and learned to climb. My experience walking in there in 1993 was TOTALLY different than a new climber would have walking into the average climbing facility now. Back then, climbing gyms were primarily the domain of serious rock climbers who needed a way to stay in shape during the bad weather months or in between trips to outdoor climbing locations. Climbing as a general fitness activity hadn't arrived yet.

When I entered the facility that day, I was first greeted by a man on crutches who told me he had just broken his ankle in an outdoor climbing fall. He seemed pretty intense. There were several men climbing near the front without shirts on, their bodies seemingly made of nothing but muscle and sinew. One of them was attempting a climbing move just a few feet off the ground right in front of his buddies, who stood no more than arms reach from him, shouting him encouragement and prepared to break his fall if he came off the wall. He was exerting himself fully while trying the move, and I was struck by his effort, while all he had to do was literally put his foot down and he would have been standing directly on the ground.

I felt somewhat intimidated by the atmosphere. The place was definitely filled with people who climbed seriously, and at that time I was definitely someone who did not. I was glad I was there to take an actual lesson because I would have absolutely no idea how to start for myself. My teacher was the owner of the club, and he was very friendly and helpful. It was almost like having my own personal trainer. By the end of the 2 hour lesson I knew my way around the gym and the equipment and knew how to belay another climber and tie myself into the rope for safety. And I had climbed from the bottom of the walls to the top several times successfully. I was officially a climber, albeit a very enthusiastic beginner.

In the present day, a first trip to a climbing facility for a beginner will be a completely different experience. There are many more climbing gyms around, and like I mentioned above, many fitness centers and health clubs have climbing walls now. These climbing gyms and fitness center walls are used much more now by the average fitness enthusiast who is looking for a fun way to workout or have some recreation, and beginner classes abound. The look and feel of the facilities is usually very family friendly. Birthday parties and social events for kids, corporate outing and team building for adults as well as family recreation outings make up a huge percentage of the business for climbing walls nowadays. A first time visitor will be greeted by an enthusiastic staff wearing matching t-shirts and typically watch a safety video that gives an overview of the procedures of the facility. Then in a small group or individually, they are led out to attempt a few climbs before they are cleared to use the place on their own. The extensive orientation I received at The Vertical Club is mostly a thing of the past. The equipment and safety set up is much easier for the average person to learn, which gets them climbing and having fun sooner. This has greatly increased the number of people who participate in climbing and has led to the serious climbers that I saw on my first trip to The Vertical Club frequently being the minority in the gym at any given time.

Getting your exercise while climbing indoors usually involves you making your way from the floor toward the ceiling of the facility using plastic holds for your hands and feet that have the same look and feel as real rock. These are attached to a wall that is textured to resemble a real cliff face. As you make your way to the top, a cable attached to an automatic belay device or a rope attached to your partner and tied to your safety harness that you wear keeps you safe from a fall. Most indoor facilities have walls for roped climbing that go up to about 30 feet in height, though some in the United States go from 60 to 90 feet. Most facilities also have a version of climbing called bouldering where the climber is not roped but never climbs more than 10-15 feet off the ground, protecting against a fall with large gymnastics pads moved around on the floor underneath. Snug fitting climbing shoes with specially made rubber soles are worn for incredible grip against the footholds.

Indoor rock climbing requires exactly the same fitness and muscle strength and enduranace demands as doing it outdoors. And the benefits are awesome! Unlike traditional weight training which involves lifting weight in a controlled movement in a gym or home setting, rock climbing is "strength training with a twist": you as the climber are now the weight going up or down and rather than an arbitrary number of repetitions to be performed to complete a set, the goal of climbing is to get to the top of the wall. It doesn't matter how it is accomplished, either. Climbing doesn't have to look pretty to be effective. The result is a change of focus away from the effort of repetitions to the effort of working toward the immediately achievable goal of reaching the top. This can result in a very empowering feeling of accomplishment for the climber, because each trip up the wall holds a challenge that can be overcome and a goal that is achieved. This is what has been known to be addicting and can lead you to want to do more. And when you want to do more, you will keep doing it. And that is the biggest secret for long term success in fitness: keep doing it! It is amazing what consistency can accomplish.


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Monday, July 28, 2008

Canyoneering Adventures Video Gallery

See cool videos of canyoneering trips including wading through narrows, finding our way through thick moss, rappelling slot canyons, and more.

Canyoneering Videos

First Water Canyon Narrows

Upper Fish Creek Canyon Moss Pool

Canyoneering Christopher Creek Canyon Video

Canyoning Sycamore Canyon to Mexican Border Video

Canyoning Agua Fria River Canyon Video

Buckskin Gulch Canyoneering Video

Cold Swim - Fish Creek Canyon

Start 25 min. swim - First Water Canyon


Sundance Canyon Video

Rappelling 180 ft Sundance Canyon

Havasu Falls Video

Photo Gallery for Canyoneering Trips

See the collection of photos for canyoneering trips including the Jug, First Water Canyon, Upper Fish Creek Canyon, and more.

Canyoneering Trip Photos

the Jug Photos

First Water Canyon Photos

Upper Fish Creek Canyon Photos

Christopher Creek Canyoning Photos

Sycamore Canyon Canyoneering Photos

Peters Canyon Canyoneering Photos

Agua Fria River Canyon Canyoneering Photos

Buckskin Gulch Photos

Sundance Canyon Photos

Bear Canyon Photos

Crawdad Canyon Photos

Havasu Falls Photos

Neon Canyon Photos

Egypt 3 Canyon Photos

Upper Fish Creek Canyon Canyoneering Photos

Upper Fish Creek Canyon Canyoneering Superstition Mountains

Explored the Upper Fish Creek Canyon today which winded its way through boulders, pools, and nice shade from the hot desert sun. The temperature was just over a hundred degrees though down in the canyon the temperature was great.

Upper Fish Creek Canyon refers to the upper level of the canyon from Fish Creek Bridge on the Apache Trail. The trail is a moderate intensity of boulder route finding, scrambling, some modest climbing, and pools.

Most of the pools were pretty still which makes for fun moss water wading through. Some of the pools were up to my chest though most were under knee hight. The pools were a great way to cool off and I would recommend going through this canyon on a hot Arizona day.

What made the trip is finding and jumping into a dark deep pool. A huge rock overhanging kept the sun from hitting the pool and this one was cold. After the short swim it does take a climb to get yourself out. The pool was eerie black because of lack of light.

You can make this a point A to B route for about 8.5 miles though the pools and more fun boulders are all in the first 3 miles from the bridge. We did an out and back. There is no big land mark where you have to turn around though we did after wading through a couple of pools the canyon really opened up and we decided that was the best place to turn around.

I highly enjoyed the canyon. We had a first time guy with us and the ease of the canyon made for an enjoyed first time, and it was just hard enough in spots to make it a fun challenge.

Sunday, July 6, 2008

ACA Canyoneering Rating System

ACA Canyon Rating System

The basic format of the ACA Canyon Rating System includes two digits. The first digit is numeric and represents the values described below related to terrain and rope work. The second digit is an alpha character representing the values described below related to water volume and current. Additional values may be added to represent relative risk and time/commitment. Ratings are cumulative. For example: descending a Class 3 canyon will require the skills listed under Class 3, as well as those listed under Classes 1 and 2.

NOTE: Ratings refer to descents in normal conditions, during what is considered the normal season for the canyon. Adverse conditions, such as higher than normal water volume or colder temperatures, will increase the difficulty of the descent.

TERRAIN / TECHNICAL ROPE WORK
1 Canyon Hiking
Non-technical; no rope required. May involve some easy scrambling requiring the occasional use of hands for balance and support. See route description for more information.
2 Basic Canyoneering
Scrambling, easy vertical or near vertical climbing and/or down-climbing requiring frequent use of hands. Rope recommended for hand lines, belays, lowering packs and possible emergency use. Exit and/or retreat possible without ascending fixed ropes. See route description for more information.
3 Intermediate Canyoneering
Exposed technical climbing. Down-climbing could be difficult and dangerous; most people will rappel instead. Rope required for belays and single-pitch rappels. Obvious natural or fixed anchors. Retreat up canyon will require ascending fixed ropes. Basic pothole escape techniques (i.e. partner assist, counter-weights) may also be required. See route description for more information.
4 Advanced Canyoneering
Route may involve any combination of the following: 1) difficult and exposed free climbing and/or down-climbing, 2) climbing using direct aid, 3) multi-pitch rappels, 4) complex rope work (i.e. guided rappels, deviations, rebelays), 5) obscure or indistinct natural anchors, 6) advanced problem-solving and anchor-building skills. See route description for more information.
WATER VOLUME / CURRENT
A Normally dry or very little water. Dry falls. Water, if present, can be avoided and/or is very shallow. Shoes may get wet, but no wetsuit or drysuit required.
B Normally has water with no current or light current. Still pools. Falls normally dry or running at a trickle. Expect to do some deep wading and/or swimming. Wetsuit or drysuit may be required depending on water and air temperatures.
C Normally has water with strong current. Waterfalls. Expect to do some deep wading and/or swimming in current. Wetsuit or drysuit may be required depending on water and air temperatures.

NOTE: Water level in any canyon can fluctuate greatly from year-to-year, season-to-season, even day-to-day. If, upon arrival at a canyon, you discover the water volume/current is greater than indicated by the rating, descent will be more difficult than suggested by the route description. It will be necessary to reevaluate your decision to attempt the descent.

RISK / SERIOUSNESS (OPTIONAL)
R Risky
One or more extraordinary risk factors exist that could complicate the descent. Solid technical skills and sound judgment critical. Not recommended for beginners.
X Extreme
Multiple risk factors exist that will complicate the descent. Errors in technique or judgment will likely result in serious injury or death. Descent should only be attempted by expert canyoneers.

NOTE: The presence of an R or an X in a rating suggests that the canyon will involve higher than average risk. The absence of an R or an X does not suggest that there will be no risk. All canyoneering involves risk.

Risk factors include number and frequency of rappels, length of rappels (single- or double-rope) and exposure, anchor availability, anchor quality, route finding, obstacles, problem-solving, terrain encountered between technical sections, flash flood potential, availability of exits and high ground, water temperature, prolonged immersion, and difficulty of evacuation or rescue. Specific factors should be addressed in the route description.

TIME / COMMITMENT (OPTIONAL)
Half Day
I Short. Normally requires only a couple of hours.
II Normally requires a half day.
Full Day
III Normally requires most of a day.
IV Expected to take one long, full day. Get an early start. Bring a head lamp. Plan for possible bivy.
Multi Day
V Expected to take an average one and a half days.
VI Expected to take two or more days.

NOTE: Time estimates are based on average group of 6 people or less. Larger groups and less experienced groups will take longer. An accurate self-assessment of your abilities will be important. For some users, it may be adequate to refer to time in terms of half day, full day or multi day. Others may prefer a more specific estimate and choose to use the Roman Numeral Grade system common in traditional multi-pitch rock climbing.

Monday, June 30, 2008

Alpine Climbing and Fitness

I have written before in this publication about indoor rock climbing and its fitness benefits. Now I want to turn my attention to the sport of "alpine climbing" and its variations, and how this activity can become a part of a fitness lifestyle that is truly in concert with what we call the "inner athlete." Another term for alpine climbing is simply "mountain climbing". Though most people would think of mountain climbing as something that would involve a very high peak and trekking through snow to get to the top, the purpose of this article is to show the value of participating even in less extensive climbs that test fitness and require some planning, but can be done in a short period of time or even over the course of an afternoon. As a personal trainer I was always looking for things that would effectively motivate my clients to adhere to a fitness program and reach their goals. Whether the goal was weight loss, building muscles, toning up their bodies or having more energy, I knew that the "Inner Athlete" that we mention frequently on our website exists in everybody, so it was up to me to find an activity that allowed a client's version of that inner athlete to come out. Training to get their body fit enough to climb a mountain was frequently the ticket. It is a very simple idea: get your body from the bottom of the mountain to the top, and once you are up there, enjoy the view and the fruits of your labor. A lot of clients were really intrigues by the idea, so we built their cardio programs and resistance training programs around it.

As I write this article, recently I have been riveted by the current Discovery Channel series "Everest, Beyond the Limit". The series follows the journey of a group of climbers led by a professional guide as they attempt to reach the summit of the world's highest mountain. In the series, viewers are treated for really the first time with EXACTLY what it looks and sounds like way up at those rarely traveled altitudes. In addition, a TV series has never before focused on the actual life these climbers lead as they spend almost 2 months on the mountain itself, getting used to the altitude and building the specific fitness required to achieve the summit. The hardship these people endure to reach their goal is almost beyond the understanding of most people, as the prolonged exposure to the increasing altitudes of Everest causes the climbers' minds and bodies to gradually shut down and stop working properly. It is enough to make even a pretty experienced fitness professional and adventurer like myself question the value of doing something that extreme to my body. Even having done some alpine climbing myself, including summiting Oregon's Mt. Hood (11,249ft) and Washington's famous Mt. St. Helens (8,364 ft), I still found it tough to imagine wanting to put my body through something so tortuous. The altitudes on the mountains I have climbed are only around 1/3 as high as those on Everest (29,035ft)

That's not what this article is about, however. Only a few thousand people in the entire world have ever stepped onto the summit of Everest, but virtually anyone can find a "climbing" adventure that suits their fitness and personality. The experience of the thrill of climbing is something that is realistically within anyone's means when actually trained for. Most people have just never really considered it possible or know where to start. Looking beyond the extreme nature that is present on Everest, the sport of "mountain climbing" can be participated in by almost anyone with a solid basic level of fitness. There some real and absolutely extraordinary fitness benefits that extreme climbers have achieved by the time they are done on Everest, and a version of those benefits are within the reach of "normal" people. These are people who may want the adventure of climbing a mountain to motivate them, but can realistically be achieved on a much smaller scale attainable by virtually anyone.

Physiologically, climbing is one of the most effective aerobic activities that can be performed. The steady state effort required to train for and perform climbs builds tremendous fitness in the heart and circulatory system. It is also typically low impact and easy on the joints which makes it an activity that virtually anyone can perform at some level.

Psychologially, climbing has a typically very simple appeal: getting to the top of a mountain feels good and is a very easy goal to define. "I made it to the top" is a very attractive thing to feel. Everybody wants to feel a sense of accomplishemnt in their lives, and too often our fitness success or failure is defined by the weight scale. All shapes and sizes of, people can climb, and the mountain doesn't care what size you are, it only cares if you made it to the top of it or not. So, best of luck in your climbing adventures, no matter at what altitude you finish!


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Tuesday, June 24, 2008

First Water Canyon - Arizona Canyon Lake

Just got done finding my way through First Water Canyon which is found running off from Canyon Lake in Arizona. First Water Canyon extends for miles though the part we entered is right after the first one lane bridge when you arrive at Canyon Lake.

Canyon Lake is beautiful county and if you get the chance it is a nice place for a picnic or sight seeing while in the Phoenix desert.

We started our adventure with a little climbing and scrambling as we found our way to the top of the cliff as we made our way from Canyon Lake to where the canyon starts to form. The route was thorny so we decided to get in the water earlier than needed. You are going to get wet entering Canyon Lake so might as well make it early.

To enter First Water Canyon it requires so swimming before a short wade. We added only a few minutes to our swim though it took 45 minutes to swim against the current until we were able to wade. It is absolutely beautiful while you swim your way zigzagging through the canyons walls towering above.

Once out of the water is a short hike of boulder hopping and sand. A few pools which are green and shallow which we climbed around.

A mile or so from getting out of the water is a cool narrows followed by a chimney made out of the rock. We played around the chimney area for some short climbing and then we the canyon opens more into the hot Arizona desert. This was our turn around point as the canyon goes for miles.

The swim back feels great on a hot summer day. I highly recommend the hike especially because you have to swim to get in which eliminates almost all people. Other than the swim the canyon is pretty easy to navigate with amazing canyon walls that tower above your head.

Monday, June 9, 2008

Apache Trail Canyon

I just did the Apache Trail Canyon which is the name the guide book a read gave it. It is technically an unnamed canyon that was great. One of the best part of being an unnamed canyon is the we were the only people scrambling lower into the earth. The Apache Trail Canyon is about an hour or so outside of Phoenix.

The canyon didn't require any technical ability with ropes though you had to know how to climb to make your way through. The entrance has a short rappel at a waterfall though you can down climb into the canyon just a feet yards away. A chimney that we supposed to be able to down climb was too sketchy so I found an over hang that was manageable.

Once in the canyon it was great; in and out of pools and scrambling over boulders. A few spots required intermediate climbing ability. Nothing that any person who has climbed before couldn't handle though if you are just a hiker it could be overwhelming.

There was one pool that was over our heads and we had to swim. I always love those.

The only thing that sucked was we ran into another canyon on the way back to the car and had to down climb it and back up the other side to get to the road.